Garden

Garden Chores for the Month of May

The month of May has arrived….and what a busy month this is in the garden!

The gardens are coming alive and there is much to be done.

But remember the old adage-

In the middle of May comes

the tail of winter. 

So while you are enjoying the beautiful spring weather, remember to have your fleece cloth handy for that unexpected freeze.

I garden in the mid-Atlantic region, which is zone 5-6.  The last expected frost for this region is the middle of May, usually around Mother’s Day, but we are not entirely frost safe until the end of May, or around Memorial Day.  So, plant accordingly.

Here is a list of some things that can, and probably should be done in the garden this month-

  1. Perennials can be planted.  This is also the time to dig and divide any overgrown perennials, such as hostas and daylilies.
  2. Tender summer blooming bulbs, such as dahlias, gladiolas and canna lilies can be planted out after the last frost.
  3. After the spring blooming bulbs have flowered, remove the spent flower head but leave the foliage until it dies back naturally.  Wait to cut off the leaves until they have turned brown.
  4. Harden off your seedlings. Any seeds that have been started indoors should be potted up and can be taken outside on nice days to begin hardening off so they are prepared to be planted out.
  5. Warm season flowers and vegetables can be direct sown in the ground after the last frost.  For vegetables, these would be green beans, corn, cucumber, pumpkin and squash.  For a longer harvest window you can plant short rows of each every 2-3 weeks for a longer successive harvest.
  6. House plants that have spent the winter indoors can be taken outside on nice days to get acclimated to being outside again.  Put them in a sheltered area and do not put them in direct sun.  You can begin fertilizing them now.  Any pot bound plants need to be re-potted up.
  7. Window boxes, planters and pots, as well as flower beds can be planted up with tender blooming annuals after the last frost date.
  8. Prune any trees and shrubs that need help. Remove all dead, diseased or crossing limbs.
  9. Prune back the spring flowering shrubs after they have finished blooming to keep them compact such as lilac, forsythia and quince.
  10. Prune and shape any evergreens if needed.
  11. Prune and fertilize roses.
  12. Begin mowing the lawn.  Leave the grass cuttings to provide nitrogen. Re-seed if needed. Now is the time to spread any ‘weed and feed’ product on the lawn.
  13. Set up supports as needed.  In the vegetable garden-tomato supports and trellis for climbing vegetables.  In the flower garden-trellis and supports for climbing plants such as clematis.
  14. If you use an irrigation system, get it set up and tested before too much growth has taken place.
  15. Make sure that newly planted seeds are kept watered.
  16. Regularly harvest the rhubarb and asparagus.
  17. Do any thinning of early spring sown vegetables.
  18. Put up hummingbird feeders.
  19. Keep up the regular maintenance of the the yard and garden.  This includes weeding on a regular basis.  Try to keep after the weeds while they are just starting to grow and still small. The object is to not let any weeds go to seed.  Weed pressure is highest in the spring and early summer, and if you can keep after them, it will not be so bad later in the season.
  20. Fertilize as needed.
  21. Mulch as needed.  Do not apply mulch until the ground has warmed up sufficiently.  Keeping the garden mulched will cut back on so much work later on.
  22. If you haven’t already, start and keep a garden journal.  Also, take regular pictures of your garden.  It is amazing what you can’t remember from year to year and photos are a big help.

More work now will mean less work later when the heat of summer is here.

( AI generated photo)

So, enjoy the beautiful spring weather while it is still not too hot.

Take time to savor the sights, sounds and smells of May.

A Prayer For Spring

Oh, give us

pleasure in the flowers

today.

And give us not 

to think so 

far away

As the uncertain

harvest.

Keep us here

all simple in the 

springing

of the year

Robert Frost

Happy Gardening!

Margie

Garden · Uncategorized

Essential Spring Gardening Tasks for Zone 5/6

First Week of April 

Zone 5/6

6-8 weeks before the last frost

There is no time like spring,

when life’s alive in everything.

Christina Rossetti

We are now on a fast track to all the gardening tasks coming up.  The time to actually get outside and get our hands in the dirt and begin gardening in earnest.  Spring has arrived and the weather is changing.

  • Vegetable seeds that can be planted outside in prepared soil in the next few weeks-Beets, carrots, chard, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, potatoes, onions, spinach, turnips, parsnips and peas.
  • It is a good idea to have a row cover handy if the temperatures drops too low.  Or hot caps or cloches can be used.
  • Begin hardening off seedlings of broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, and cauliflower.
  • Tomatoes and peppers can be started indoors.  All about seed starting HERE. Make sure you are watering properly and giving these new seedlings plenty of light.
  • Start weeding now.  Get a head start on weeds-they are already growing and some are already flowering.
  • Begin spreading weed suppressing mulch.
  • Build any new raised beds to be planted for summer crops.
  • Dig and divide any crowded perennials, such as rhubarb.
  • Turn under any row covers.
  • Get the rest of the growing beds cleaned up and ready for planting.
  • Clean up bird nest boxes.
  • Cut back ornamental grasses.
  • Begin spring pruning of shrubs and trees.
  • Prune roses.
  • Prune raspberry canes.
  • Remove dead foliage of perennials.
  • Turn your compost pile.
  • Clean out the planter boxes and pots.  Top off with a good compost.
  • Start a garden journal.

“A garden grows

not just from soil and water,

but from the love and hope

poured into it.”

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How to Successfully Grow Peas

Peas are one of the first crops that you can sow in the vegetable garden. They are also one of the easiest vegetables to grow.

Most peas are ready to harvest in 50-70 days after sowing. A second planting of peas can be made 2-4 weeks after the first one and the harvest can be extended. They are a cool weather loving vegetable so are best planted in the early spring. Peas can even handle a late snow and even some freezing temperatures. Peas need to mature while the weather is cool. They can also be planted as a fall crop when the summer heat has abated.

How to Grow Peas

Location

Choose a sunny location with at least 6-8 hours of sunlight.

Soil

Needs a well-draining soil. Amend the soil with compost or well aged manure before planting. Do not over fertilize. This will create excessive foliage growth over pea production. Peas are light feeders. Peas are also nitrogen fixers-putting nitrogen back into the soil. Heavy feeding vegetables can be grown when they are done.

When to plant

Plant as early as possible in the early spring, about 6 weeks before the last projected frost in your area. I grow in zones 5-6, and this is usually in March and April. Raised beds are ideal if your spring is long and wet. If planting peas as a fall crop, plant 6 weeks before the first projected frost for your area.

How to plant

Peas do not like their roots disturbed once they germinate and are best direct sown in the ground. This is a good reason to have the ground cleared and ready to plant in the fall.

The seeds will germinate in about 6-17 days. The pea seeds can be soaked in water overnight to help them germinate sooner, but it is not necessary. The temperature of the soil should be above 40 degrees. If the temperature is too low, it will take the seeds longer to germinate.

Plant your pea seeds in a furrow 1-1/2 inches deep and 1-2 inches apart. Do not thin the seedlings as they emerge. Rows can be planted 12-24 inches apart.

How to grow

Most pea varieties, even the bush type, need some type of support. It is best to keep the foliage off the ground and it makes the peas easier to harvest. Have the supports in place before you plant so as not to disturb the fragile roots. Peas can be grown on a trellis, chicken wire, stings or netting. Tree branches and twigs can also be used as a support. Plant a row of seeds on each side of your support or trellis. Bush varieties of peas grow 18-30 inches, while pole varieties grow as tall as 4-6 feet.

Weed the peas gently and mulch to keep weeds from growing and the soil temperature down. Keep the peas watered.

Companion Plants

Peas grow best with beans, coriander, corn, cucumbers, radishes, spinach.

Peas do not like garlic, onions and potatoes.

Crop Rotation

Do not grow peas in the same location for 3 or 4 years.

Harvesting

Pick your peas as soon as they are ready and early and often. It is best to pick peas in the morning after the morning dew has dissipated. Use two hands to pick the peas-one hand to hold the vine and the other hand to pluck the pea pod off.

Cool the harvest quickly. The peas can be keep in the refrigerator for about 5 days and you can keep adding to them until there is enough to eat.

Peas can be eaten raw-they are a nice treat freshly picked while out in the garden. They can be eaten as a raw snack and in salads. They can also be used in pasta dishes, soup, casseroles, and stir fry’s.

When the plants begin to turn yellow, it is time to cut them off at the ground. Leave the roots in the ground to provide nitrogen for the next crop.

To preserve your pea harvest for later in the year, it is easy to freeze them. Shell the peas, blanch in boiling water for a few minutes, immerse in cold water, then drain and pack into plastic bags and freeze.

Varieties of Peas

There are 3 basic varieties of peas.

1. English or Sweet peas. These peas have an inedible pod and need to be shelled.

2. Snow peas. They are flat, stringless and the whole pea pod is edible.

3. Sugar Snap peas. Thick edible pods that contain full size peas.

There are also a variety of yellow peas and purple peas.

The History of Peas

Peas are traditionally planted on Saint Patrick’s Day.

Peas, being quick growing, were the vegetable of choice for the genetic research done by a monk named Gregor Mendel in the mid 18th century. His experiments led to ground breaking genetic research in the Laws of Inheritance, the Laws of Dominance, the Laws of Segregation and the Laws of Independent Assortment.

Have you ever grown peas? Are you planning on growing peas this year? Comment back and let me know how your pea growing went!

Garden · Uncategorized

How to Successfully Start Seeds Indoors

It is the time of year to start seeds.

Here are some tips to help you get started.

  1. Gather and prepare your containers.  There are many items you can use to start your seeds in.  I have tried a number of ways, and most of them worked out well for me.   Egg cartons. Wax covered milk or juice cartons. Carry-out container. Paper, plastic or foam cups.  Containers that yogurt or puddings come in.  I wash and save them all year and just poke a hole in the bottom of each for water drainage.  Used nursery six packs can be reused if they are cleaned well. You can make your own growing containers from empty toilet paper rolls or you can make them from newspaper. Just make sure that they are at least 2 inches deep.  All work well. 
  2. Have a water proof tray or container of some sort to put all your seeded containers in.  You will need something that will catch the water that drains out of the seed cups. A tote works well for this.

2. Purchase or use seeds you have saved

  • Y
  • 3. You can purchase ready made starting trays from the store that come already filled with starting mix and have a humidity dome. These are the easiest.  Just
  • wet the soil and you are ready to plant.
  • 4. Make sure you are using a seed starting mix and not regular potting soil.  Do not use soil from your garden as it can contain pathogens that can damage your seedlings, Seed starting mix can be purchased by the bag to fill all your starting cups with.  It is the ideal medium for seed starting.  It is finer and more light weight than regular potting soil and makes it easier for the germinating seeds to break the surface.  It actually contains no soil and is comprised of peat moss, vermiculite, coconut coir and perlite.  Just moisten, stir and fill your containers.  Make sure to tamp the soil down so there no air pockets and there is good soil to seed contact.
  • 5. After the container is full of soil, poke a hole into the center of each one-I use the end of a pencil-it seems to be about the right size. 
  • Check the seed packet for information on how deep to plant each seed, usually two times deep as the size of the seed.

Drop the seeds into each pre-made hole. I use a pair of tweezers to do this as many of the small seeds are hard to handle.

Sow 1 or 2 seeds in each hole. If both of the seeds germinate, just snip off the smallest one with a pair of scissors, leaving the biggest one to grow on. There should only be 1 plant per pot.

  • 6. Pinch the soil up over each planted to seed to cover it. 
  • If the seeds are very small, just give a thin dusting of soil over them.
  • 7. Make sure to label each kind of seed and also note the date sown.  My stand-by for marking all the things that I grow is plastic mini blinds. 
  • Find an old set of mini blinds and cut out the cords.  Cut the loose blind pieces into whatever length of marker you need and use a permanent marker to label each variety.  These markers will last all year. 
  • 8. I love the pre-prepared trays that come with a humidity dome.  Once the seeds are planted, just cover the tray and that is it.  The moisture will stay inside to keep the seeds well watered. If you do not have a humidity dome, you can cover the tray of seeds with plastic wrap to keep the moisture even, but it is not necessary. Light is not needed for most seeds to germinate.
  • 9. I also have a heat mat that I use for my seed starting. I consider a heat mat a good investment if you will be starting seeds regularly.  You just set the trays of planted seeds on the mat and it will keep the seeds at an even temperature for good germination.  If you do not have one, don’t worry.  Any warm place will work.  Seeds usually like a temp of 65 to 75 degree to germinate.
  • 10. In just a few days you should begin to see green growth poking up through the soil.
  • The seed packet will have information on the usual germination time of each type of seed and some will even have a picture of what a just germinated seed looks like.
  • 11. As soon as most of the seeds have germinated, remove the humidity cover. Then remove the seed tray from the heat mat. Immediately move the seeds trays to a bright light location. A window is usually not enough light to
  • promote good growth.
  • 12. You will need to provide good growing light for the seedings. This usually involves artificial light. The seedlings will grow tall and spindly and lean toward the light if there is not enough light.  You are wanting short and stout seedlings.  When I was growing plants for the Farmer’s Market, I had a seed starting set up that involved a metal shelving unit with regular shop lights hanging on chains that I could adjust as the seedlings grew taller. The lights need to be just inches above the growing seedlings.  Regular shop lights worked fine for me as opposed to more expensive grow lights.  I also had the shop lights plugged into a power strip that was plugged into a timer so the seedling received the correct time of light.  You will usually be starting seeds when the daylight is less.  Seedlings need 16-18 hours of light to grow properly.
  • 13. Water the seedlings regularly.  They can be watered by bottom watering or use a fine spray bottle with room temperature water. Do not let them dry out, but also do not overwater.
  • 14. The first leaves that emerge are not true leaves, but are known as cotyledons.  They are actually part of the seed.  When the first true leaves emerge-and you should now recognize them as the leaves of the plants you are trying to grow- you can begin fertilizing. 
  • Use 1/2 strength regular fertilizer once a week.
  • 15. As your new seedlings begin to grow, they will need to be potted up.  More on that later.

Some vegetable seeds that benefit from early sowing indoors are:

Peppers- 8-10 weeks before last frost

Leeks and Onions-6-8 weeks before last frost

Tomatoes-6-8 weeks before last frost

Eggplant-6-8 weeks before last frost

Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage and Cauliflower-4-6 weeks before last frost

Garden · Uncategorized

How long are my seeds good for?

While it is February, one can taste the full joys of anticipation.

Spring stands at the gate, with her finger on the latch.

Patience Strong

One thing that needed done before I began my spring seed buying frenzy, is that I needed to go through the seeds that I already had.

They were a big, jumbled mess! I gathered them all together and dumped them on the table.

I sorted through all of these old seeds packets. I weeded out (no pun intended-there will be plenty of weeding in the near future!) and threw away the outdated seeds, keeping only those that would be viable. There is a seed viability list below for you to refer to if you are going through your seeds.

All of my seeds nicely stored in a plastic container, in alphabetical order of type and date. It is very easy to flip through them and to quickly know what I have and what I still need to buy.

There is an optimal way to store seeds to extend their viability. They should be stored in a cool, dry dark place and should be kept from moisture and temperature fluctuations.

If you are not sure of their viability, there is a simple test you can do to check them. Just take a few seeds, place them on a damp paper towel, roll the towel up and place the paper towel in a plastic bag. Mark the bag with the date. Leave the bag in a warm place and after a few days check for any germinating seeds. If you have a 50% germination rate you can still use them, just sow them more thickly than usual.

Here is a list of the viability of vegetable seeds.

1 year

lettuce, onions, parsley, salsify

2 years

corn, leeks, okra, peppers

3 years

asparagus, broccoli, carrots, celery, kohlrabi, peas, spinach

4 years

beets, brussels sprouts, cabbbages, cauliflower, swiss chard, eggplant, fennel,

kale, pumpkin, radish, rutabaga, squash, tomatoes, turnips, watermelon

5 years

artichokes, cantaloupes, cucumber, collards, endive, radish

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Benefits of Growing Your Own Seedlings

 

Have you considered starting your own seedlings this year?  It may seen like a difficult thing to do, but with a little know-how it is easy to accomplish.

Here are some reasons to start your own seeds this year.

  1. Better selection.  Buy your seeds early to avoid not getting what you are wanting and had planned on growing. Seed companies have so many more varieties than the seedlings that are grown by the nursery, greenhouse or big box store.  In a previous post-SEE HERE-there is a list of some of the seed companies that seeds and plants can be ordered from.  Most of them have a website and you can order on-line. Or you can request a paper catalog be mailed to you.  I always so enjoy taking my time to read through the paper catalogs before I place my order.  The choice is yours, not only what has been started by the garden business.  A word of caution!  Be careful and thoughtful or you will get carried away and order way too much!  Don’t ask how I know this….
  2. Save money.  You get more for your money when buying seeds as compared to buying the usual 6-packs of seedlings.  For the price of the six-pack you get many more seeds in a packet. If you only need a few seedlings, most seeds can be saved for future use.
  3. Growing Practices.  You can have control over the growing practices.  If you are concerned about pesticides, herbicides, GMOs, etc., you can make sure of how your seedlings are being grown.
  4. Planting and Harvest.  When you grow your own seedlings you have control over the planting time.  You may want to start seeds early to be set out under a protective cover for an earlier harvest or start seeds late to have a later fall garden.  You can grow just the amount you need.
  5. Earlier Harvest. Some types of plants will need to be started indoors as the growing season is not long enough to get a harvest before frost, but many of the plants that can be direct sown can be started indoors to get an earlier harvest or flowers.  You can get a jump on the season.
  6. Successive Planting.  You can have control over successive seed starting to give a long season of harvest.
  7. Proper Plants.  You can make sure that you are growing plants suited to your region and location.
  8. Seed Saving.  Many of the plant varieties (open pollinated or heirloom) can left to go to seed and the seeds saved from year to year.  This is another way to grow plants that have become acclimated to you location.
  9. Quality Control.  You have control over the quality and quantity of the seeds grown.  You can grow strong, healthy seedlings.
  10. Food Security.  Growing your own plants is a good way to enjoy some food security in this unsettled time.  Grow enough to can and freeze and you will have food all year long.
  11. Avoid the Spring Crowd.  I always make a trip (sometimes many trips!) to the greenhouse in the spring, but if you want to avoid the frantic rush of everyone in town scurrying to buy those plants to get them in the ground in a hurry, you do not have to go there.
  12. Sharing and Swapping.  Starting your own seeds is a great way to do sharing and swapping with others.  For many years I started seedlings to sell at the Farmer’s Market in the spring.  The left-over seedings I would take to church and share with whoever wanted any plants, usually tomatoes. When church was over I would pull my van up to the church entrance and open the back with a sign-Free Tomatoes!  I grew lots of unusual heirlooms and got lots of questions about each kind.  It was a great joy to share with others.
  13. Fun.  Seed starting is a very good garden activity to do when those long winter blues are feeling heavy.  How nice to get your hands in the ‘dirt’ and be growing things when not much is happening outside. It is very fun to watch the seeds emerge and grow.

 

Have you ever started seeds before?  Leave me a comment and share how your seed starting experience went for you!

Planting Seeds

We can plant the seeds of kindness,

Seeds of hope and joy and peace.

We can plant, and we can water.

Only God can bring increase.

All God asks  is faithful planting,

Constant reaching toward the goal.

Then His blessed Holy Spirit

Can reach out to save a soul.

We know God will never ask us,

“Just how well did you succeed?”

All He wants is faithful living,

Faithful planting of His seed.

Garden · Uncategorized

Top Seed Catalogs for your Garden….and a Give Away!

A List of Seed Catalogs

While the winter winds howl and the snow blows and you are tucked inside a warm house under a warm throw with a warm drink near by….

It is time to crack out those seeds catalogs that have been arriving in the mail.

What a welcome sight these catalogs are….with thoughts of great garden dreams as I peruse them.

Some of my past seed order packets…

And some free seeds thrown in!  Yes, I started them, planted them out and they grew well.  I had been wanting to grow some ancho chilis for chili rellenos and here they were!

Here is a list of some of the seed companies to order from;

Park Seed Co-www.parkseed.com

Johnny’s Selected Seeds-www.Johnnyseeds.com

Totally Tomatoes-www.totallytomato.com

Vermont Bean Seed-www.VermontBean.com

Pinetree Garden Seeds-www.superseeds.com

Burpee Seeds-www.burpee.com

Gurney Seeds-www.gurneys.com

Botanical Interests-www.botanicalinterests.com

Jung Quality Garden seeds-www.jungseed.com

Southern Exposure Seed Exchange-www.southernexposure.com

Sow True Seeds-www.sowtrueseed.com

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds-www.rareseeds.com

High Mowing Seeds-wwwhighmowingseeds.com

Harris Seeds-www.harrisseeds.com

R.H. Shumway-www.rhshumway.com

Wild Garden Seeds-www.wildgardenseed.com

Renee’s Garden-www.reneesgarden.com

Territorial Seed Co-www.territorialseed.com

True Leaf Market Seed Co-www.trueleafmarket.com

Peaceful Valley Farm and Garden Supply-www.groworganic.com

Terroir Seeds-www.underwoodgardens.com

John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds-www.kitchengardenseeds.com

Just a few comments about some of the above companies-

I order many of my seeds from Pinetree Garden Seeds.  I think you get more seeds for the money.

Territorial Seed Co.-I always get in trouble here!  The garden dreams run away with this catalog!

Totally Tomatoes-Any tomato you are looking for!

Vermont Bean Seed-I always like the thought of growing a huge variety of dry beans, but alas, I don’t have the room, so I just keep dreaming!

Baker Creek-This catalog is the the Cadillac of seed catalogs and the unusual variety is amazing. It is real eye candy for gardeners.

Burpee, an old reliable company, but a little on the pricey side.

The Burpee seed display is already out in the local Walmart store.

This is just a partial list of all the seed companies that are out there.

Now is the time to start planning that garden and getting your seed order in.

Yes and No….

Yes, it is nice to have a diversion from house cleaning, but yes, I still plan on cleaning my house!  Spring house cleaning on the way!

Do you have a favorite seed catalog to order from?

And now, for the free give-away!  I have a 2025 Farmer’s Almanac calendar for someone.  All you have to do is make a comment-any comment, and we will draw 1  name and get it right out to you.  I love my FA calendar.

Have fun seed shopping!

Garden · Uncategorized

Seed Shopping

Have you started shopping for your garden seeds yet?  This is a wonderful activity to occupy your time during these long, cold days of winter.    Here are some ideas to help you get started.

  • Browse the seed catalogs (a nice thing to do on cold, snowy days!)
  • If you keep a garden journal, refer to it to remember how the garden year went for you last year.  What worked well and what didn’t.  Make note of what you would like to change or do differently this year.  If you have never kept a garden journal, I suggest that you start one this year if you are planning to garden.  You can purchase a garden journal-stores have some very cute ones, or just keep a simple notebook to make notes in.  Also, use your cell phone to take photos of your garden during the growing year. This is an easy way to have something to refer back to.
  • Stop by the store and see what seeds they have available.  The stores now have gardening products in stock.
  • Inventory the seeds you already have.
  • Make sure the seeds you have saved are viable and will grow for you.  Nothing quite as disappointing as planting, watering, tending and….nada…nothing.
  • Decide what you want to grow this year. What is your goal in growing this year?  Will you grow vegetables?  Flowers?  Are you planning on canning and freezing or just growing for fresh eating?  Are you wanting to make cut flower arrangements or just enjoy beautiful flower beds?
  • Consider the days to maturity, habit and size of the plant and fruit, disease tolerance
  • Comparison shop for the best deals.
  • Shop early for the best selection and supply and to avoid shipping problems
  • Know you growing zone

  • Know your frost dates

  • A mix of seeds may be better than a straight variety
  • Will you be growing hybrids or heirlooms?  Or a mix of both?  All American selections are always a good choice-they are tried and true varieties that gardeners have grown for years and have come to trust.
  • And remember to save those seed catalogs-there is usually valuable information in them that you can refer to later.

 

 

 

 

Garden · Uncategorized

Things to Consider When Planning Your Garden

In the middle of winter, and with the dreaming of this year’s gardens, it is easy to get carried away.

But there are some things that you need to consider while you are dreaming and planning.

 

  1. Know your ability. Are you a first time gardener or a beginner?  Are you an experienced gardener? Are there health or age issues that will affect your gardening efforts?  If you are just starting out as a gardener my advice is to start out small and see how things go for you and then you can expand or make changes from your experiences.
  2. Know your site.  It is important to know the location of the garden you will be working with.  Consider carefully where the garden will be located.  Sun, part sun or shade are important things to consider.  Also, easy access to a water supply is important.  It is nice to have the garden in a convenient place, especially when you want to run out and quickly grab something for the meal you are preparing.  I garden in a small yard and have raised beds along the fence line, so I do have to deal with some shade issues.  But I can see all of my raised beds from my kitchen window and they are a pleasure to look at, and it is so easy to access.

    raised beds in snow
    My garden in winter
  3. Know your soil.  The success of your gardening efforts will be directly affected by your soil.  It may be worth the time and effort to have the soil tested.  Do what ever  is needed to bring the soil up to a good growing standard.  If the soil is very poor, maybe raised beds filled with good soil is the answer. I yearly use wheel barrow loads of mushroom compost on my growing beds, as both a fertilizer and a mulch.  I love the stuff!
  4. Know your local climate and hardiness zone.
  5. Know your personal taste.  If you are growing a garden for personal use, only grow what you will eat.  You don’t like radishes?  Don’t grow them!  Do you want to can lots of green beans?  Grow them!
  6. Know the time commitment.  Gardening does take a considerable amount of time investment, especially if you are wanting to keep your garden looking nice.  Know how much time you are willing to invest in your garden.  If the garden, whether vegetable or flower, becomes overgrown and very weedy, it will become a discouragement.  Gardens should be a place of enjoyment, whether from beauty or bounty.
  7. Know the bloom and harvest times.  The seed packets will give you this information of when to expect a harvest or blooms.  If you have grown a garden before you may have learned that you can get by with 3 or 4 zucchini plants instead of 12.  And I don’t recommend going on vacation when all  of your green beans are coming in!
  8. Know your seeds and transplants.  Know what you are planting. Know the growth habits and eventual size of the plants. Know the sun, fertilizer and water requirements of each variety.  Know the companion plants.  Be careful of growing plants that can be invasive.

These are just some thoughts on what to consider when planning your garden this year.   Are you planning on growing a garden this year? Can you think of any other things to consider when planning a garden?  Comment and let me know what your plans are!

Happy Gardening!

 

 

Garden · Uncategorized

The Benefits of Snow

Spring may feel like a long way off right now.  We are going through the middle of winter, and this winter has turned out to be a rather severe one.  We are experiencing bitter cold and snow.

There are benefits of snow!

  1. First off, snow is beautiful.  “Kindness is like snow-it beautifies everything it covers.”
  2.  Snow is a natural insulator.  It creates air pockets that trap heat. It will protect roots and crowns from extreme cold.  (Remember Eskimo Igloos?) Shovel snow from the sidewalks onto the growing beds. It will..
  3. Help maintain a stable temperature on growing beds, that will…
  4. Help prevent ‘heaving’ of plant roots.  The process of freezing and thawing of ground that is uncovered can cause plants and roots to ‘heave’ out of the ground.  If you see this has happened, press the plant back down into the dirt, and mulch it.
  5. Snow provides steady moisture to the garden and prevents drying out of the soil.  Plants need moisture year round, and snow provides it, now and while it slowly melts.
  6. Snow is known as the ‘poor man’s fertilizer’. It provides nitrogen to the soil. As snow flakes fall through the atmosphere, they attach to nitrogen molecules, and the nitrates are slowly released into the soil as the snow melts.  “A good winter with snow, makes all plants grow.”
  7. Snow provides wind protection, and prevents erosion.
  8. Snow is beneficial to some winter sown seeds.  The cold of snow will break the dormancy of some seeds that will allow germination.  This is known as ‘cold stratification’, and some seeds needs this in order to grow.  Some seeds that can be sown in late fall and winter that need cold stratification are Black-Eyed Susans, Larkspur, Coneflower, and Poppies.
  9. Snow provides mulch cover to gardens. If there is no snow, mulch with straw, bark chips or pine needles.  You can also mulch right on top of snow.

Two old sayings about winter-

“When oak trees bend 

With snow in January,

Good crops may be expected.”

And a warning-

“January warm,

The Lord have mercy”

Take heart as you shovel sidewalks and clear snow off your car-the days are getting longer by a few minutes each day and Spring will be here before you know it!

 

He sends the snow like white wool;

he scatters frost upon the ground like ashes.

Psalm 147:16